Provincial Suhua Highway 9D, between Su’ao and Nanao and why this section is so special
The Suhua Highway is for sure one of the most spectacular, but also one of the most dangerous sections of Taiwan’s famous Cycle Route No. 1. The 25 kilometers between Su’ao and Nanao are notorious—and rightly so. When I passed by this part during my tour of Taiwan, I was fascinated by the breathtaking scenery, but also confronted with the real dangers that waiting here for cyclists. This part is not a ordinary section of the Taiwan loop, but a challenge that should only be handled with preparation and respect. Or you simply dont ride there.
The fascination and dangers of the Suhua Highway
Why cyclists riding the Suhua Highway
Unique landscape and connection: The Suhua Highway is not only one of Taiwan’s most spectacular roads—it is also the only direct coastal connection between the north and south on this side of the island. The route winds along steep cliffs, offering breathtaking views of the Pacific Ocean and passing through tunnels carved directly into the rock. It is an experience you will not soon forget.
Adventure and challenge: For many, it’s pure challenge—steep climbs, tight corners, and the feeling of pushing yourself to your limits—something I know from the Alps. But here in Taiwan, everything is different. Not only the heat that makes your eyes water, or the humidity, but also the roads themselves. They wind through dense jungle, are often narrower, more unpredictable, and very fragile in the mountains. In the Alps, you battle against the altitude and the cold. Here, you battle with the climate, the vegetation, the road, and also the traffic.
I will explaining The risks on the Suhua Highway
Natural hazards: Landslides and rockfalls are real risks, especially after rain, earthquakes, or typhoons. The road is narrow, the surface is often fragile, and loose stones at the edge are not uncommon. There are construction sites everywhere, and the road is only passable in one lane.
Traffic: Heavy trucks, buses, and cars share the narrow road with cyclists. The tunnels are particularly critical—loud, narrow, and often only passable in one lane due to construction sites. The noise and air pressure from trucks rushing past are a physical and psychological stress.
No space for mistakes: One wrong moment, a swerving truck or bus, or a sudden rockfall can quickly become dangerous.
“I remember a tunnel, more like a black hole, which I drove into, with only one lane available. The rain added to the apocalyptic atmosphere. Water was flowing down the walls on both sides, the road felt like it was only three or four meters wide, and behind me was the tremendous roar of trucks. At that moment, I thought: This is pure the hell!” — From my report, Day 6: Taipei to Hualien
Practical tips for riding by bike the Suhua Highway
Weather and timing
Only ride in good weather (I know – easier said than done): rain, fog, or wind significantly increase the risk. Check the weather forecast in advance and avoid the route in unstable conditions.
Start early: Traffic is lighter in the morning on the Suhua Highway. Take advantage of the time between 12:00 and 1:00 p.m., when many truck drivers take their lunch break. Do not ride there in the dark.
Direction and strategy
Ride in direction North (counterclockwise): Most attractions are located on the ocean side of Suhua Highway, and traffic comes from behind, making it easier to stay in your lane and see any potential rockfalls.
Ride in groups: Riding in a group makes you more visible and allows you to support each other. And above all, always be aware of where you are stopping. Always look up, always observe everything carefully.
Think about alternatives
Train options: Between Xincheng and Su’aoxin, there are trains that allow bicycles without packaging. This is a safe alternative to avoid the most dangerous part.
New Suhua Highway sections: Since 2021, parts of the new route (Provincial Highway 9) have less traffic. Find out in advance which sections are already open to cyclists. As far as I know, this section is not permitted for bicycles.
Equipment and preparation
Lights and reflectors: Essential, especially in tunnels. Always important on long rides. I never ride into the unknown without lights.
Rain jacket: Be sure to pack it—the weather on Suhua Highway can change in minutes. Tropical showers are intense and it can get cool also.
Spare parts: At least one spare inner tube and one spare tire – otherwise, a flat tire in a tunnel or on a narrow section can become a dangerous problem.
Communication: A charged cell phone and a power bank are essential. But – there is no signal in some sections.
Why I am warning you
The Suhua Highway is a highlight of any ride around Taiwan, but the section between Su’ao and Nanao is not an easy part of road. It requires experience, concentration, and a realistic assessment of your own skills. I rode this section and was glad to have made it through unscathed. But I would advise everyone: get all the information you need, prepare yourself, and think twice about whether you want to take this risk.
„Don’t be afraid of Taiwan“ – but also respects the challenges.
Conclusion: Suhua Highway – an unforgettable experience
The Suhua Highway is one of Taiwan’s most impressive roads. A masterpiece of engineering and a natural wonder. A technically challenging route that winds along the coast, passes through tunnels carved through rock, and offers breathtaking views of the Pacific Ocean. The combination of rugged cliffs, dense greenery, and the constant sound of the sea makes the drive a unique experience.
However, the Suhua Highway is also one of the most dangerous routes for cyclists in Taiwan. Tight curves, narrow roads, occasional rockfalls, and unpredictable weather require full concentration and good preparation. Anyone riding this route should be aware of the dangers: check your equipment, check the weather conditions, and realistically assess whether you are up to the challenge.
For me, it was 25 unforgettable kilometers, very intense – but I would advise everyone to make the decision carefully. Those who are well prepared will be rewarded with one of the most spectacular cycling adventures. Those who underestimate it risk more than it is worth.
